Price list
| Campervan consulting | €90/h |
| Tiny house consulting | €90/h |
| Initial consultation | 30 min, donation-based |
| Hands-on work, per hour | on request |
| Travel to and from site | by arrangement |
Tiny House PRO | Tiny House knowledge
Tips for construction & care
So that your house gives you pleasure for a long time
A Tiny House is a proper house too, and houses need care. On every house there will be something to put right at some point; perhaps the façade or a window will need repainting. With mobile houses in particular, something can warp as a result of transport or longer periods standing still. In the first few months especially, timber houses settle, there is creaking here and there, and doors and windows may need readjusting.
There is plenty you can pay attention to during the build, though, so that your dream house lasts a long time. And in the finished small home, a few care tips should be observed as well. Then the house should stay with you for a lifetime.
If you pay attention to certain things during construction and maintenance, you can live in your little house for a lifetime.
Moisture in the Tiny House
… must be planned for!
Moisture is one of the biggest risk factors for the service life of a Tiny House. A Tiny House is a small space in which people live, breathe, sweat, cook and shower.
So there are many sources bringing moisture into the space. And Moisture is unfortunately the ideal precondition for mould growth. There are, however, several measures that can be taken to prevent it.
Because this topic is so centrally important, I have devoted a separate topic page “Moisture in the Tiny House” to it. It covers the subjects of Water vapour, Vapour-permeable construction, the sd-value, I explain the function of Vapour barriers, explain Thermal bridges and Effective insulation and give guidance on Avoiding moisture .
Facade rear ventilation
The façade is the outer skin of the house, and on Tiny Houses it is often made of wood. Timber façades can look very different: various types of wood can be used, as can various façade profiles. Timber façades can be fixed to the wall construction in different ways. What you cannot see straight away from the outside is whether and how the façade is rear ventilated. The exchange of air behind the façade is important so that the façade can dry off quickly when wet. The façade can take up moisture both from outside (rain, high humidity) and by diffusion from inside the wall. The moisture that builds up in the air gap is carried away by wind, pressure differences and thermal buoyancy in sunshine.
Experience has shown that it is not necessarily essential to rear ventilate the façade; ventilation and an exchange of air through the joints can also be enough to prevent excessive moisture in the façade. What is important, however, is that there is a layer of air behind the façade. Without this layer of air, water that gets behind the façade, for example through driving rain, cannot drain away properly, trapped moisture can build up and mould can form. The layer of air behind the façade also serves summer heat protection and helps to avoid a build-up of heat between the insulation and the façade.
rear-ventilated façade
ventilated façade
façade without rear ventilation, with a layer of air
façade without rear ventilation, without a layer of air
Enabling air exchange
Depending on exactly how the façade is fixed, it is described as rear ventilated, ventilated, or not rear ventilated with a static layer of air. With rear ventilation, an exchange of air takes place through openings at the top and at the bottom; with ventilation, the air can only be exchanged through an opening at the bottom. A façade without rear ventilation but with a layer of air should have a high proportion of joints, so that air can be exchanged through the joints. This kind of air exchange is also present with ventilated and rear-ventilated façades. In principle the façade can also be fitted without a layer of air; it is then described as a façade without rear ventilation and without a static layer of air. In that case, however, no exchange of air can take place at all, and trapped moisture can no longer dry off properly.
Related to this topic: The topic page “Façade”
Correct ventilation
No matter how well a house is built and insulated, it must always be ventilated properly. Smaller rooms in particular need a regular exchange of air. Over the course of the day, the air in a closed room becomes enriched with all kinds of substances; we perceive it as “stale”. A large proportion of this is CO2, which is produced by breathing. A raised CO2 level in the air reduces our performance and makes us tired.
At the same time, moisture collects in the air through washing, cooking, breathing and the perspiration of the people in the room. Animals and plants release moisture into the air as well. On top of that come smells from cooking or from the toilet, as well as off-gassing from new pieces of furniture. But to live and breathe we need oxygen, so the air has to be exchanged regularly. If too much moisture collects in the air, the risk of mould forming on the walls also increases, because fungi prefer a damp climate. Correct ventilation is therefore essential.
Humidity – ideally neither too high nor too low
An ideal indoor climate is achieved at a relative humidity of between 30 % and 60 %. Below that, dust smoulders on heating surfaces, which can release irritant substances such as ammonia. Above 60% humidity the air is perceived as unpleasant, because the body’s heat regulation no longer works properly. Relative humidity can be influenced easily and effectively, above all by ventilating. If a relative humidity of over 70 % occurs close to the wall surface, this encourages mould growth, even if no condensation is yet visible on the wall.
Directly at the wall surface, a low wall temperature can mean that the relative humidity is considerably higher than the humidity in the middle of the room. How often and when you need to ventilate depends above all on the moisture loads in the room. If you want to know exactly, you can install a hygrometer. At a humidity above 65 % you should ventilate. Because objects can also absorb moisture from the room and release it back into the air, the air can reach a raised moisture content again relatively soon after ventilating.
Windows
The most obvious way to ventilate is of course windows. There should be enough of them, ideally also in places where a lot of moisture is produced, such as in the bathroom or above the cooker. When arranging the windows, care can be taken to allow a good through-draught. This is achieved with windows opposite one another, and roof windows can play their part too. Many windows, roof windows in particular, also have a ventilation setting that allows at least some exchange with the outside air.
If you need support with building or maintenance: Trade services are something I also carry out on site.
Ventilation systems
Regular ventilation is often neglected or forgotten, though. In small rooms in particular it is especially important, because moisture and CO2 build up in the air more quickly. It therefore makes a great deal of sense to integrate a ventilation system into the house. These systems provide forced ventilation of the house, so that a minimum level of air exchange always takes place. In the bathroom in particular this is an effective way to prevent mould. If the bathroom has no window, a ventilation system is indispensable. There are various ventilation systems, which work in slightly different ways. If you want to keep power consumption low, you can opt for a solar ventilator, for example the one from Grammer Solar. It consists of a fan and an air collector fitted with solar cells. This is mounted on the wall or on the roof. When sunlight hits the collector, the fan starts up and fresh air is fed into the house. Beforehand it is pushed through the air collector, where it is filtered and warmed, and it then passes into the interior through an insulated duct. This way the house does not cool down and you save heating energy while ventilating. Used, humid air flows outside through exhaust openings. In sunshine there is therefore a continuous exchange of air without any running costs. The system offers effective protection against mould in the house and is also ideal for holiday homes or garden houses that stand empty for longer periods.
Ventilating properly
It is generally recommended to carry out purge ventilation 2–3 times a day rather than leaving the windows permanently on the tilt setting. Tilt ventilation is not very effective; the window has to stay open for over an hour to ensure a sufficient air change. That is very inefficient, especially during the heating season. The most effective method is cross-ventilation, where windows opposite one another are opened. Because ventilating always means losing heat as well, the recommended ventilation times depend on the season and the outside temperature. The greater the temperature difference, however, the better ventilation works, so in winter you do not have to ventilate for as long at a stretch as in summer. In the coldest months, 5 minutes of purge ventilation is usually enough; in summer up to 30 minutes may be necessary. In spring and autumn the time should be between 10–20 minutes, depending on the outside temperature. If the heating is still on, it should be turned down while ventilating. In summer, ventilate mainly at night, when the air is cooler and drier.
If you are in the house all day, ventilating 3 times is not necessarily enough; 4–5 times is better. In the bedroom you should ventilate immediately after getting up, because a lot of moisture builds up overnight. In the same way, you should ventilate thoroughly straight after cooking and showering. Especially if the house is well insulated and the windows are particularly airtight, you have to ventilate more often, because no air exchange can take place through leaks. In the past, less ventilation was actually needed, because a lot of air could get into the house through draughty windows or other leaks.
If you are in the house all day, ventilating 3 times is not necessarily enough; 4–5 times is better. In the bedroom you should ventilate immediately after getting up, because a lot of moisture builds up overnight. In the same way, you should ventilate thoroughly straight after cooking and showering. Especially if the house is well insulated and the windows are particularly airtight, you have to ventilate more often, because no air exchange can take place through leaks. In the past, less ventilation was actually needed, because a lot of air could get into the house through draughty windows or other leaks.
Positioning cupboards sensibly
To avoid mould it is important that the exchange of air in the room can take place properly and that humid air is replaced by dry air. This requires a certain amount of air circulation in the room. At edges and in corners in particular, air circulation is restricted, which reinforces the local drop in the room-side surface temperature at thermal bridges. Furnishings such as cupboards disrupt the thermal flow of the air and restrict the radiation exchange with the surroundings. As a result, the air at cool surfaces behind cupboards may not be carried away or able to warm up. Because the water vapour content of the air depends on temperature, condensation and therefore mould are more likely to occur here. Cupboards should therefore never stand flush against the wall; a small gap should be left for air circulation. The same applies to the contents of shelves fitted directly to the wall.
Heating correctly, avoiding a cold house
Heating correctly saves energy above all, and therefore not only money: it also lowers the risk of mould and reduces your CO2 emissions. Around 70% of the energy used in the home goes on heating, and heating also accounts for 60% of CO2 emissions here. Even so, you do not want to be cold at home, and a certain base temperature has other advantages too.
In the living area a temperature of 20–22°C is recommended; in the bedroom and kitchen 17–18°C can be enough. In a Tiny House this is usually the same room, but you can turn the temperature down by 4–5°C at night without too much energy being lost in reheating. A cooler temperature at night is also helpful for good, restful sleep. It should not get colder than 17°C, however, as the risk of mould then rises. For this reason the house should also be kept at a temperature of at least 15°C during longer absences. In very cold winters, letting the house cool down completely could also lead to damage to the pipework from frozen water.
Heating energy can also be saved by lowering the roller shutters and closing the curtains at night, as long as they do not then cover the radiator. Likewise, no furniture should stand directly in front of the heat source, because the warm air cannot spread as well. A thermostatic valve on the radiator, which regulates the room temperature automatically, also helps to save energy. Newer models are quite easy to programme.
In the living area a temperature of 20–22°C is recommended; in the bedroom and kitchen 17–18°C can be enough. In a Tiny House this is usually the same room, but you can turn the temperature down by 4–5°C at night without too much energy being lost in reheating. A cooler temperature at night is also helpful for good, restful sleep. It should not get colder than 17°C, however, as the risk of mould then rises. For this reason the house should also be kept at a temperature of at least 15°C during longer absences. In very cold winters, letting the house cool down completely could also lead to damage to the pipework from frozen water.
Heating energy can also be saved by lowering the roller shutters and closing the curtains at night, as long as they do not then cover the radiator. Likewise, no furniture should stand directly in front of the heat source, because the warm air cannot spread as well. A thermostatic valve on the radiator, which regulates the room temperature automatically, also helps to save energy. Newer models are quite easy to programme.
Ideal temperatures:
Living area 20–22 °C
Bedroom 17–18 °C
& kitchen
Minimum temperature 15 °C
Ventilating properly
Winter 30–75 minutes
Spring/autumn 1–3 hours
Summer 3–6 hours
Winter 4–6 minutes
Spring / autumn 8–15 minutes
Summer 25–30 minutes
Winter 4–6 minutes
Spring / autumn 8–15 minutes
Summer 25–30 minutes
Winter 2–4 minutes
Spring / autumn 4–10 minutes
Summer 12–20 minutes
Related to this topic: topic page “Moisture in the Tiny House”
Regular checks and repairs
A Tiny House should also be seen as a fully-fledged house, and every house needs repairs at some point. It would not occur to anyone to live in a detached house for decades without ever carrying out a single repair. Even though a Tiny House is smaller, it needs care.
For example, you should check at regular intervals whether the water can still drain properly from the roof and clean any blocked filters leading to the gutter. After a few years, work on the roof covering may also become necessary. The Facade is likewise worth keeping an eye on. If it is heavily soiled, for example by splash water after heavy rain or perhaps by bird droppings, the affected areas should be cleaned with a brush. Damaged façade boards should be replaced. And if the façade is painted, then the paint must be renewed regularly as well.
Naturally, high-quality materials that last a long time should be used from the outset. But the service life of the whole house can be increased considerably through care and prompt repairs, should something break.